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Top 8 Must Haves For The New Kitten In The House


Bringing home a new kitten is exciting. Be sure that you prepare your home with the essentials before picking up your new arrival. Here are the top 8 must haves.

1) Bed

Kittens are happy just about with anything soft and cushy. You can get a fancy bed, but even a soft pillow in a box will suffice. Small beds aren’t that much, but make sure it’s one that you can wash if you do choose to buy one.

2) Food & Water Dishes

If you only have one kitten at home a couple small, shallow bowls will work fine. Be sure the water bowl is sturdy enough that it won’t tip over. Clean them regularly. Water bowls tend to start building up residue around the sides. Make sure they have fresh water to drink at all times.

3) Brush and Comb

For a long haired kitten you can use a long toothed metal comb and a brush. They should be brushed at least once a day to help keep their fur free of mats. For short haired kittens a bristle brush will work. You don’t have to brush them as often, but it’s good to keep brushed regularly. Be sure to start this while they are young so they get used to it.

4) Carrier

A carrier is important to have right away since you will be taking your new kitten in to the vet for check ups and shots. Any kind is fine as long as it is ventalated and large enough for them to move around. Throw something soft in it for them to lay down in. Don’t let your kitten loose in the car because they can climb all over the place, under your feet, around your neck, or even up on the dashboard which is unsafe.

5) Litter Box, Litter, Scooper & Mat

The litter box needs to be kept clean and fresh litter should be added regularly. A mat or piece of carpet placed outside the box is recommended to catch the loose litter they may have in their paws while exiting their box. If you have dogs keep the litter box out of their reach since some dogs will eat the kittens fecies.

6) Collar with Name Tag

Even if your kitten is strictly indoors it is still good to have a collar with their name and your phone number on a tag. You never know when it might sneak out the door and get outside. Get them used to wearing one while they are young.

7) Scratching Post

A kitten uses the scratching post more for exercise than it does to sharpen it’s claws. They like to stretch out while clawing down their post so make sure that it is tall enough for them to do so. They come in all shapes and sizes. You can get one that they can climb up or one that is simply a post with carpet or rope wrapped around it.

8) Toys

Toys are a must as kittens as they love to play. Just be sure they are strong toys and can’t be torn apart or swallowed. Kittens love mice, catnip, boxes to climb in, balls, etc. A ball or a soft mouse hanging from a string off a door is always a favorite.

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Adopting A Cat From A Shelter


Animal shelters bear the consequences of reckless breeding practices, the failure of pet owners to responsibly spay and neuter their pets and the heart-wrenching acts of neglect and abuse. In addition, abandoned pets and strays are taken in at a rate that often exhausts the capacity of the shelter. Reputable animal shelters deserve our attention and financial support.

It is advantageous for a cat lover to adopt a pet from a shelter. Shelters offer a wide array of companion pets for all sorts of individuals and families. While animals receive adequate care in a shelter, nothing compares to the everyday comforts of a warm and loving home.

Adopting a cat at a shelter is the best possible way of ensuring the mutual satisfaction and love that both the pet owner and the pet deserve. In addition, cats in shelters have developed personalities that allow a person to more accurately choose one that will best suit one’s lifestyle. It’s tempting to want to start with a kitten. However, in addition to the unexpected inconvenience, chores and energy of dealing with a kitten, there’s no guarantee that the ultimate personality will suit your lifestyle or home situation. Contrary to your first inclination, kittens are not the best choice for young children. A cat that is at least one year-old offers the best chance of giving a young child a positive experience with their first pet. Mature cats are much easier to care for, and more predictable in their behavior. Shelter workers are genuinely interested in helping you find the right cat for your personality, demeanor and home situation, and will assist in helping you make a wise decision and investment.

Adopting your cat from a shelter is also substantially more economical. A majority of shelter cats are of a mixed-breed, without the inherited health issues many times associated with particular full breed cats. Shelter cats are usually spayed, neutered and vaccinated. Special discounts are often available for spay or neuter programs if your cat is adopted at a young age. You can also adopt a set of cats that have bonded, or litter mates at a lower price. This is often a very rewarding experience that enhances the quality of life for the cats, as well as the companionship one ultimately enjoys. The price of adoption can vary. Certain shelters ask for approximately $100 for a cat, but it can be substantially less. In addition to spay and neutering, the adoption fee from a reputable shelter will usually include vaccinations for distemper and testing for both feline AIDS and feline leukemia. The average cost for feline AIDS and leukemia treatment is $45-$75 for each disease. Spaying or neutering can run up a bill of $45-$90 and vaccinations typically cost $150-$300. Adopting a cat from a shelter not only relieves the burden of overcrowding that many shelters experience, but it’s obviously the more cost effective choice.

If one is insistent about a particular breed, the selection at a shelter includes most every breed at one time or another. In addition, there are many organizations that specialize in the rescue and adoption of specific breeds. Most of these can be located online or by referral of your local shelter. The employees and volunteers of the shelter want what’s best for the cat and will work together to help you find the best possible match.

Shelters are in special need during the spring and early fall seasons. These are the breeding seasons, and shelters are generally overrun with kittens that need homes. If you’re an experienced cat owner, capable of the responsible ownership of a kitten, and committed to the life-long care of a cat of uncertain personality and health, a kitten can be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience.

To locate an adoption center in your area, check your phonebook or with a local veterinarian; or contact the Humane Association of the United States. Millions of cats who do not get adopted are humanely euthanized annually in the United States. By taking a feline companion into your home, you will be saving a life, and making room for other cats to have a chance of living a full life in a nurturing environment.

Remember: pet ownership is a life commitment. Consider the long-term care and expenses of the cat, and be willing to accept the difficult times as well as the memorable experiences and priceless companionship your cat will return to you.

Finally, support local and national shelters as well as the many organizations that provide badly needed services and ensure the humane treatment of our valuable animal friends.

Cat ownership is a serious decision. Taking an animal into your care will require knowledge, cat nutrition and the the proper supplies

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Introducing a Second Cat to a Household


As cats are inherently territorial, introducing a second cat to the household can be an awe-inspiring task. Here are are some tips and tricks to make life a little easier. A cats home really is his castle. One of the first things your cat will do when introduced to a new environment is mark his territory. She does this by leaving smells at the point of each object. When a new cat comes along the smell of another cat will send the message “Back off! You’re trespassing!”

The approach of another cat onto her territory will immediately cause heckles to rise, however sweet and harmless the cat newcomer maybe. So how can you introduce a cat to the household when there is already a dominant cat?

The accepted method is to do it by degrees. This is the method we used when we were introducing three month old Ellie, our blue Burmese girl to Louie, our red Somali boy. Lou was 7 months old and had been in the house for one month.

Both cats need to get used to the sight, smells and presence of the other. A safe way to do this is to create a small territory for the newcomer. This could be a spare room perhaps that you can stop the resident cat going into. Spray it with household smells and allow the newcomer to mark his territory. This gives him a place to retreat to if things get a little rough - a safe harbour.

The next step is to put the newcomer back into the cat box and take him down to another room where the resident cat is. Place the cat box down and leave the two cats in the room together. They will not be a threat to each other because they clearly can not get to each other. But it will allow them to get used to the sight, smells and presence of each other in a safe environment.

The next step is to place the box in different places in the room and then the house. After this stage swap where the two cats are. In other words place the resident cat into the box and let the newcomer roam free in the room. The more this is done and interchanged over a long time as possible, the more they will get used to each other without feeling the other is a threat. The last step is to open the box in a room where you can supervise what is happening and allow the newcomer to retreat to his own room if necessary. Often by this time , the cats will have accepted each other and tolerance may even turn to friendship! A good sign is when the cats are eating together. As all cat lovers know there will always be “spats”, but they can usually work things out themselves without any harm.

There is always a possibility that the resident cat is far too dominant and territorial to allow the newcomer in. This indeed may lead to quite aggressive behaviour. In which case the owner should seek professional help or consider not introducing a second cat at all.

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Which cat should I buy?


So you’ve decided to buy a Cat. First of all there are probably two different routes you can go down. Either you decide to get a cross-bred cat or “moggie” or you decide to get a pedigree cat.

I have never liked the word “Moggie”. It tends to send messages of a lesser class of cat. This, as owners will know, could not be further from the truth. They can be as affectionate, playful, unpredictable, irritating, exasperating and as beautiful as any other of his/her feline cousins. The real difference between the two is when you buy the latter you have a better chance of guaranteeing the looks, temperament and personality. In this way you can be more specific about what you would like your cat to be like.

The cross-bred is more likely to have unique looks and unpredictable character which some would say makes them all the more endearing. Because they are not pure-bred and also have not been through what I would call the “stable system”, they are not so expensive. Often they are advertised free via Newsagents windows, church magazines, or such like when the queens brood proves too expensive to keep.

But other places to bear in mind are the RSPCA or Animal or Cat shelters. They will not always have kittens available but you may well be helping to re-home a desperate cat who can offer much affection in return.

When searching for a pedigree you will probably have a breed in mind already. Expect to pay between £300 (average) and £1,200 for the rare oriental breeds. Be very wary of breeders who are offering kittens at ridiculously low prices. There is a danger these cats have not been looked after properly, not been given the correct vetinary input and questionable whether they are pure-bred at all. If ever you are buying kittens from a private owner and you are suspicious they are not being looked after properly, contact the RSPCA. You may well be saving a lot of heart-ache in the future.

Take into account the cats temperament, and personality. Are they likely to be too demanding? Will they yearn for the out doors too much? Do they get on with other cats? Cats such as Burmese, Tonkinese, and Siamese are very demanding and almost need to be played with at times like you would a dog. How will this affect your everyday family life? The British Blue is more your traditional lap cat. Eat sleeps and keeps to himself.

Cats differ quite significantly in size. The Maine Coon, British Blue and Norwegian Forest are all quite massive cats when fully grown; the deven or Cornwall Rex are both quite small. Is your home big enough for the bigger cats if they are going to be kept in? Finally be aware that a long haired cat takes a lot of grooming.

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