Tag Archive | "litter"

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Dealing With Cat Anxiety


Some stressful situations that can cause cat anxiety for your cat are: being alone in the house, or when visitors to the home, another new pet or family member, moving to a new home, visits to the veterinarian, adjusting to a new environment, and multiple cat households. Unfortunately, when cats suffer from stress and anxiety, they generally communicate it in a very clear way that can really turn humans upside down. One of the real signs that usually tell us is that they are not using the cat litter box.

Cats with separation anxiety don’t howl and bay like dogs and theydon’tchew on doors and windowsills in frantic attempts to escape. Their misery is far less obvious and it sometimes takes a sleuth of an owner to appreciate what is going on. Separation anxiety in cats is a less common phenomenon and typically gives rise to behaviors that are not as destructive as those of a dog suffering from separation anxiety. It is so uncommon in cats that it was not till recently that the disorder was considered to be absent in the feline species.

Separation anxiety is a very distressing condition for pets and their owners. Although it is difficult to treat, the long term benefits of having a happier and healthier pet are well worth the time spent training your pet. Separation anxiety: canine and feline and human beings alike, are all prone to and suffer from active bouts of stress due to environmental, emotional, and physical factors. Such stressful times can not only be harmful to your pet, but also to you as a pet owner.

Cats normally are fastidious groomers and as much as 30 - 50% of their time awake is spent performing some type of grooming behavior. One uncommon sign of cat anxiety may be excessive grooming, to the point of creating a bald spot on one or two areas of the body. Cats may show their distress in other, less obvious ways such as becoming too anxious to eat when left alone; or vomiting only when the owner is not there.

Cats find consistent routines and predictable environments very comforting, so try to keep your cat’s activities on a schedule. Playtimes, mealtimes, and bedtimes should occur at approximately the same time every day. Cats with anxiety related elimination problems also may spray, but do so for other than hormonal reasons. Instead, something in their environment causes them to become anxious. Cats commonly start to manifest their stress or anxiety by what is politely called inappropriate toiletary behavior.

Cats are very sensitive to their owner’s emotions, so if you’re nervous during thunderstorms, your cat probably will be, too. Learning to calm yourself will help both of you. Cats who display this type of behavior generally follow their owners around everywhere, rather than explore the outside world. They may even continue the suckling behavior and chew and suck on their owner’s cloths and even hand.

Cats can be very social animals and they can experience anxiety when they are separated from their owners. Cats like to know when their big cat mom and/or dad are coming and going, so they can adjust their schedules accordingly. If you or your partner takes a new job that drastically changes your household routine and lifestyle, your cat may get seperation anxiety

Aggressive behavior can be sign of stress anxiety. Owners who claim that cat play fighting did not present a problem until the cat was six or seven years old are ignoring one vital fact. Up until that age (middle age in cats) he will have taken his fights elsewhere. When the behavior is exhibited in the owner’s presence, attention can be withdrawn by turning or walking away, or some form of remote indirect punishment not associated with the owner could be used.

Owners should never physically punish their cat; even a harmless tap on the nose may be viewed as a challenge and the cat may become even more aggressive. The most effective reaction to status-induced aggression is to ignore the cat completely.

Ask your veterinarian about giving a tranquilizer to the cat to reduce cat anxiety and possibly help reduce destructive behavior. A comprehensive dietary supplement designed for animals exhibiting nervousness, hyperactivity, anxiety or responding to environmentally induced stress is also available from your veterinarian.

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Litter Robot LRII Automatic Self-Cleaning Litter Box


This thing looks like it belongs more on the Jetsons, less in your bathroom but is the absolute top of the line best when it comes to never having to scoop your litterbox again. Yes this contraption costs three hundred bucks but cmon can you really put a price on not having to deal with cat poop?

Pros:

  • Empties litter into drawer with the push of a button
  • Can be put on a timer so that it works at night while you sleep
  • Uses much less litter than a normal box which helps to offset the high cost

Cons:

  • Perforated holes allow stinky smells to escape
  • Machine is large

More Real User Feedback

The construction of the LR (LitterRobot) is very nice. The motor that is used is pretty durable, and if it does go and you are handy at all it wouldnt be hard to replace.

We’ve had our Litter Robot for over six months now and it still works like the day it arrived. Beau and Sunny (males) both appreciate it’s cleanliness and right-on-schedule cycle 7 minutes after they go.

I have had mine for 2 years and 4 months. I have 4 cats, 2 of which are quite large, about 18 pounds. After about a year, the control unit failed and it was fixed under warranty. It took about 2 weeks for it to be returned and I tell you, we really missed it! There have been no problems since.

It is double or triple the price of competitors and worth every penny.

When you can leave it for 2 weeks without touching it, and it is always clean.. it is worth it.

My impression of the bot seems like it’s well made, and definitely works as advertised. Even though it’s only been a week, I have never even caught so much as a whiff of any cat urine or feces (the unit is currently in the living room but will be moved onto the screen porch when the cat door arrives). I refuse to have that “cat” smell in the house, and so far so good. The cat is nice enough to dig a hole, do her business and then cover it up–so I consider myself lucky.

You can buy this Item at Amazon.com using the following link:

Popularity: 22% [?]

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Top 8 Must Haves For The New Kitten In The House


Bringing home a new kitten is exciting. Be sure that you prepare your home with the essentials before picking up your new arrival. Here are the top 8 must haves.

1) Bed

Kittens are happy just about with anything soft and cushy. You can get a fancy bed, but even a soft pillow in a box will suffice. Small beds aren’t that much, but make sure it’s one that you can wash if you do choose to buy one.

2) Food & Water Dishes

If you only have one kitten at home a couple small, shallow bowls will work fine. Be sure the water bowl is sturdy enough that it won’t tip over. Clean them regularly. Water bowls tend to start building up residue around the sides. Make sure they have fresh water to drink at all times.

3) Brush and Comb

For a long haired kitten you can use a long toothed metal comb and a brush. They should be brushed at least once a day to help keep their fur free of mats. For short haired kittens a bristle brush will work. You don’t have to brush them as often, but it’s good to keep brushed regularly. Be sure to start this while they are young so they get used to it.

4) Carrier

A carrier is important to have right away since you will be taking your new kitten in to the vet for check ups and shots. Any kind is fine as long as it is ventalated and large enough for them to move around. Throw something soft in it for them to lay down in. Don’t let your kitten loose in the car because they can climb all over the place, under your feet, around your neck, or even up on the dashboard which is unsafe.

5) Litter Box, Litter, Scooper & Mat

The litter box needs to be kept clean and fresh litter should be added regularly. A mat or piece of carpet placed outside the box is recommended to catch the loose litter they may have in their paws while exiting their box. If you have dogs keep the litter box out of their reach since some dogs will eat the kittens fecies.

6) Collar with Name Tag

Even if your kitten is strictly indoors it is still good to have a collar with their name and your phone number on a tag. You never know when it might sneak out the door and get outside. Get them used to wearing one while they are young.

7) Scratching Post

A kitten uses the scratching post more for exercise than it does to sharpen it’s claws. They like to stretch out while clawing down their post so make sure that it is tall enough for them to do so. They come in all shapes and sizes. You can get one that they can climb up or one that is simply a post with carpet or rope wrapped around it.

8) Toys

Toys are a must as kittens as they love to play. Just be sure they are strong toys and can’t be torn apart or swallowed. Kittens love mice, catnip, boxes to climb in, balls, etc. A ball or a soft mouse hanging from a string off a door is always a favorite.

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Kitten and Cat Care - Litter Training Your Kitten


You might be all excited because you just brought home your cute and cuddly new addition to your family. You know how much happiness your kitten will be bringing to your family, but is your newest addition trained to use a litter box yet? If not, there is no need to worry. By the end of this article you will be able to train your cat in no time at all to use the litter box and not your house plants.

It is really important for you to begin the lesson of litter box training your kitten immediately after bringing him or her into your home. Depending on the age of your new family member will depend on the length of time it will take before you no longer have to worry about the possibility of finding waste in unacceptable locations throughout your home. If your cat is still fairly young, it will be much easier for you to train him or her to use only the litter box.

The first thing you should do is show your kitten where the litter box is. If your cat is still young, you can even take one of the front paws and gently dig for two or three strokes in the litter. As frequently as once an hour place your kitten in the litter box until he or she uses it. At this time, praise the cat and even give him or her a treat.

Placing your new family member on a schedule for feeding will help you in establishing the times your cat will need to relieve himself. Feed at the same time everyday. Typically, a cat will relieve himself when he wakes up, after some exercise and after a meal. Knowing these times for your cat will make it fairly simple to stay on top of the litter box training.

Cats are very clean and sensitive to smells. This makes it vital that the litter box is kept clean at all times. If there is too much waste in the box, your cat will find a better location to relieve himself. This location can very well go unnoticed for quite sometime.

It is common for some housebroken cats to begin to refuse using the litter box. This can actually be for a few different reasons. One is stress. Everyone and everything deals with stressful situations in different ways. Also, make sure you are cleaning the box thoroughly and have not changed the type of litter you have been using. Not using the litter box can be your cats way of dealing with stress. Another possible reason for your cat to no longer be using the litter box is a UTI, or urinary tract infection. You should contact your veterinarian to try and solve your cats problem.

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10 Do’s and Don’ts of Litter Training Kittens


littertrainOne of the biggest problems cat owners face, is how to litter train their kitten. Fortunately, cats are clean and fastidious creatures and they can be trained to use the litter box very quickly. In fact, if you own mama cat, she will handle potty training for you. Otherwise, you will have to play that role. Assuming you do everything correctly, you should be able to train your kitten to use the litter box within two weeks. Just follow the list of do’s and don’ts below:

  • Don’t put kitty’s litter box next to its bed or food. You want a clear separation in kitty’s mind: bed for sleeping, food bowl for eating, and litter box for doing its business. Besides, would you want to eat and sleep in your toilet? The same goes for your kitten.
  • Use a spray to attract kitty to its litter box. There are some commercial sprays which can attract cats to a certain spot to defecate and urinate. You can use this spray, for greater convenience.
  • Use a “pet behave spray” to prevent kitty from defecating or urinating in corners and other undesirable places. This spray basically produces smells which are unpleasant to your kitten. For example, if your kitten frequently urinates or defecates in the corner behind your settee, then you should spray that area regularly. Kitty will then avoid that area.
  • Don’t use litter which clumps together (for kittens). A common recommendation for litter training cats is to use a litter which easily clumps together. While this is very convenient for adult cats, this cannot be recommended for kittens. Litters like these are usually treated to a chemical which to kittens may be sensitive. It is safer to use a different kind of litter. Check with your vet for advice on a suitable type of litter.
  • When kitty hunches up or crouches, this is a common sign that it is about to do its business. Quickly put your kitten in its litter box and scratch its front paws in it. Eventually, this will help to associate the idea that kitty should do its business here.
  • Put kitty in litter tray when it wakes up, and after eating. Many cats and kittens tend to pee and shit around these times. If you put your kitten in its litter box during these times, you will have fewer messes to clean up.
  • Whenever kitty defecates/urinates elsewhere, clean up the poop and place it and kitty in the litter box. Don’t rub your kitten’s nose in the poop. Just sprinkle some litter over the poop or pee and clean it up. Then put this mess together with kitty in the litter box. The intention is simply to associate the action of shitting and peeing with the litter box. Kitty will probably not understand at first, so you need to be patient and do it over and over again.
  • Feed kitty on a regular schedule. Part of litter training your kitten is to create fixed habits which are convenient to you. Regular feeding will help lead to regular shitting and peeing. This definitely makes your life easier.
  • Clean the litter box regularly. Scoop away the poo after your kitten defecates. Replace the litter every week. If the litter is dirty and messy, your kitten will refuse to use the litter box. This is very bad for you.
  • Don’t move the litter box around. This is part of forming good habits in your kitten. Keep the litter box in the same place. This makes it easier to associate the litter box with the act of elimination. Don’t confuse your kitten by changing the location of the litter box everyday.

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The Top Five Steps to Toilet Train Your Cat


Litter training is a simple solution to the alternative which is running over and letting them out of the house whenever they need to relieve themselves. Then, you have to hope you are home during these times. Yes, a litter trained cat is much easier to live with.

litter_kittenHowever, litter trays can be messy to clean and they can also start to smell too. For that reason, many owners often look into different ways of housetraining their cat. One method which seems to be popular with some owners is toilet training. Here you will find the top five ways to toilet train your cat. It may sound silly, but toilet training might actually be the best thing that you ever teach your cat!

1. Litter train with Newspaper

Before you can toilet train your cat, they first need to be litter trained. Ideally you should provide them with a solid box and newspaper to cover up their business. You should not use actual kitty litter as this will not flush down the toilet when it comes time to toilet train the cat. So using newspaper is the best idea.

2. Gradually Move the Litter Tray

Since cats are creatures of habit it is not a good idea to move their box quickly. They may lose where it is or refuse to use it at all. So, you will have to move the box in stages. Think of the box as if it were walking to the toilet. Everyday scoot the box a little closer to the toilet. (Or whenever you notice your cat is comfortable to where you moved it previously.)

3. Lowering The Sides Of The Litterbox

There is quite a difference between the toilet and the litter tray and your cat will definitely be able to tell the difference! So you need to start trimming down the sides of the litter tray. If you are using a strong cardboard box then this shouldn’t be too difficult. However you should obviously be careful if you are using a plastic tray!

Remember as you move the box lower the edges. Do this gradually so that kitty doesn’t notice you disrupting their everyday routine.

4. Place the Tray in the Toilet

Now that you have done all the past three steps and the box has gradually made it’s way to the toilet. You are now ready to put the box into the toilet. You will do this by tying the box inside of the toilet. Make sure when you tie the box inside the toilet that it is tied tight. If it were to fall in while your cat was using it, it will scare them and they may never come to use it again. Now it’s time for a little patience. Leave the box in the toilet until you notice your cat has become completely comfortable with the new situation. When your cat has adjusted then, move on to step five.

5. Cut a Hole in the Tray

The last step is simple. Just cut a hole in the bottom of the box. This is so kitty gets use to the water at the bottom of the toilet, and whatever kitty does will fall into the toilet. After kitty adjusts to this you can remove the box all together, and your cat will be toilet trained, and you a happy cat owner.

Popularity: 15% [?]

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